Seattle’s New Kottu Meals Cart Serves Sri Lankan Road Meals

Just before Syd Suntha cooked at Seattle’s pioneering meals truck, Skillet, in its early times, he worked in the songs sector the rhythmic seem of him banging sq. blades that each slash and shift close to the foods on the flattop of his new meals cart, Kottu, bridges his two occupations. “Dubstep teppanyaki,” he jokes, alluding to the Japanese tabletop cooking he beloved as a child. Like the Sri Lankan avenue foodstuff he serves at his cart, teppanyaki requires cooking dishes a la minute on a flattop grill specifically in entrance of the client, which injects a small theater into providing food items.

But rather of shrimp flips, egg art, and onion volcanos, Suntha concurrently chops and cooks flaky flatbread with curry, vegetables, and spices into kottu roti. The dish — a thing like fried rice created with bits of bread fairly than grains of rice — combines the richness of long-cooked cuts of meat with the high-heat flavor of the flattop and the curry leaf, cardamom, and mustard seed flavors of Sri Lanka.

Seattle diners might acknowledge Suntha’s welcoming smile from when he served them drinks at Rupee Bar or handed them food from any quantity of meals vans he labored at about the past 12 yrs, which includes his personal. In 2020, nevertheless, he shed his stake in his possess business enterprise, an function swiftly followed by getting divorced, dropping his residence, and currently being trapped in quarantine, “drinking way also significantly.”

Syd Suntha reconnected with his mothers and fathers in the course of a hard interval in quarantine by cooking Sri Lankan food with them, which led to him opening Kottu.
Suzi Pratt/Eater Seattle

Suntha desired a lifestyle improve. He sobered up, stopped cigarette smoking, and mended his romantic relationship with his family members — which influenced him to open a meals cart that draws on the delicacies of his heritage. Even while his dad and mom make “the greatest foods [he’s] at any time eaten,” he had in no way cooked Sri Lankan foods just before. “Since culinary school, I have generally cooked American

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Arab Cart Alley Mezza Is Closed, but Its Chef’s Mission Remains Vital

As Palestinian families faced imminent eviction in Sheikh Jarrah in May 2021, Khaled Alshehab, owner of Southeast Portland food cart Alley Mezza, took to Instagram to express his outrage — not just in response to the violence itself, but to the silence in the Portland food community. “What’s up Portland? Where are all the woke postings? Is Palestinian suffering not trending enough? Portland chefs making money off of Palestinian/Arab cuisines, what’s up?” he wrote in his Instagram stories.

From Alshehab’s perspective, this silence was nothing new. Dining in Portland, he has encountered several restaurants serving Southwestern Asian and Northern African (SWANA) dishes while separating themselves from the cultures: When Tusk first opened, it offered a multicourse tasting menu called the “Magic Carpet Ride.” He enjoyed Aviv’s all-vegan selection, but felt uneasy about the way it labeled its broad SWANA menu “Israeli”; for him, it felt like attributing the cuisine to the colonizer. Walking into Shalom Y’all, he found a wall of words in several languages, but only the Arabic words had been flipped around. To Alshehab, all these restaurants served Arab foods, and had pulled art, design, and even words from the people of SWANA countries without acknowledging the U.S. invasion and occupation of Afghanistan and Iraq; the ways Americans supplied military aid to the Israeli occupation of Palestine; U.S.-imposed sanctions on Iran; or the bombings and drone strikes in Syria, Yemen, Somalia, and Libya. “How can you eat at the restaurant, eat the food, while you’re fucking bombing them?” he says.

Alshehab is one of many chefs who are addressing the complexities of SWANA identity in their food and their work. Palestinian chef Reem Kassis, who grew up in East Jerusalem, reclaims and examines the cross-cultural culinary history of Arab cuisines in her cookbooks The Palestinian Table and The Arabesque Table. At Qanoon in New York City, Tarek Daka draws menu inspiration from his mother’s home cooking from his childhood on a farm on the West Bank of Palestine. Meanwhile, Reem Assil opened San Francisco’s first Arab bakery with

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